Around 4:00 pm the call to put on our wetsuits echoed through the air. After my boost in esteem, I was ready to hit the waves equipped with a positive, can-do attitude and energy to spare. However, putting back on a wet wetsuit was not at all fun. The instant my skin touched the damp suit, cold shot through my body. This is when I wish I was a burley man covered in a forest of chest, leg, arm, and everywhere-else hair. I needed a layer of warmth and protection from the wetsuit that was designed to protect me from the cold water. Since sprouting fur wasn’t an option, I just had to suck it up and pull the suit on. When it came time to haul the boards to the beach, I buddied up with Aubrey to share the burden of the task. Two bodies pulling two boards are better than one. When we arrived to the beach the sun was shining and the sky was blue. It was a beautiful afternoon, and the warm sun on my face made entering the still frigid water much more tolerable.
When I entered the water Saxton called me over to him and told me to get on the board he had. Attached to the tip was a waterproof camera to record me surfing (for learning purposes of course). I was the first person to go, and with the camera rolling the pressure was on to successfully surf. By the grace of the gods above I caught and rode an awesome wave my first try! I now realize it was a great thing that I went first because I could still feel my fingers and toes, and therefore could actually feel the board. If I had gone later on, I am doubtful this video recording session would have been as successful because I spent the remainder of the surfing session falling over. However, Saxton managed to capture my ONE good surf ride on camera, so I am a happy girl. It’s proof that I can and did surf! This afternoon surf session was such a blast, full of laughing and crashing, surfing and smiling. “So this is what it’s like to be a surfer,” I thought to myself.
Check the videos out for yourself. The embedded videos aren't the greatest quality, so I also included a link to the video on YouTube.
Check the videos out for yourself. The embedded videos aren't the greatest quality, so I also included a link to the video on YouTube.
1 comment:
That was great Sarah!!!!
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