Note: Please read the previous blog posts, Surf Camp Australia I-IV, before continuing on with this one.
Day 2. I woke up 7:00 am to rain drops pelting the roof above me. Outside it was grey and cold; not ideal surfing weather. When the yell to put on our wet suits came at 7:30, I cringed. The last thing I wanted to do was put on my cold wet suit and get into the even colder water to surf. I wasn’t alone. All of the campers looked at each other hesitantly, asking with their eyes, “Do we have to?” Even the surf instructors were whining about how miserable a day it was. But we were at surf camp, and at surf camp there is a set schedule that must be followed which says there is a 2-hour surf session each morning. As much as I wanted to stay in my warm, cozy bunk, I couldn’t be the one defiant camper who refused to go surfing. If everyone else could do it, I could too. I am tough. I have endured worse things than surfing in the cold. And so I pulled that wetsuit on and went.
Seven Mile Beach day 2, gloomy and cold |
The air was so cold that it made the water feel somewhat bearable, but I knew from the previous day that eventually I would lose feeling in my fingers and toes and this time when I retreated from the water there would be no sunshine to warm me up as there had been the previous day. It was this knowledge that made getting into the water most difficult; the knowledge that when I come back out I will be greeted by freezing winds. Still, I took a deep inhale and trudged forward into the ravage seas. The water was extremely choppy, producing terrible waves for surfing. It was nearly impossible to stand on the surf board. Every time I tried I just got bumped off by another wave. Everyone around me was experiencing the same difficulties. This was not fun. It was a drastic change from my surfing experience the prior day. I looked at my watch, which informed me that only 20 minutes had passed. There was no way I was going to endure another hour and a half of this. If any normal person had woken up on this day, no one would have said, “Today is a beautiful day for surfing. Let’s go!” No, instead they would have said, “Let’s stay inside wrapped in our blankets with cups of hot cocoa watching movies all day.” So why was I in the water attempting to surf when the conditions were so awful? Aubrey approached me in the water shivering. “I want to be back in my warm bed,” she said. We couldn’t make a mad dash back to camp because we had our boards with us, so instead we shivered back to the beach and proceeded to run around to try and warm ourselves up. In the distance was a sand dune, and we sprinted to it and huddled together on the other side where we were sheltered slightly from the wind. We stayed here with another camper for the remainder of the surf lesson chatting the time away until it was time to finally head back to camp where I took the most wonderful, long, hot shower, followed by a nap.
I didn’t go to the second afternoon surf session. Well I did go, but I didn’t surf. Despite the fact that I was at surf camp and this was my final chance to surf before I went home, I just couldn’t bring myself to do it. The instructors called “Wetsuits on!” right about the moment that I had begun to fully thaw out and regain feeling in my limbs. I wasn’t alone. About half the group decided that they weren’t going to surf either. This was not an easy decision for me to come to, mind you. Saxton and Shane were incessantly bugging me to suit up and surf. And I wanted to, I really did, but I not in this weather. I just couldn’t do that to myself. I had such a wonderful time the previous day surfing, and such a terrible time this morning. I just knew I would be cold and miserable if I had gone. Instead I wanted to preserve the happy feelings I had from my first day surfing. I had come to surf camp to learn to surf and had done just that. I did what I had set out to do. I felt content, happy and accomplished. I had nothing to prove to anyone. At that moment, all I wanted was to stay in my warm, dry clothes and sit on the beach reading, and that is exactly what I did. It was a very peaceful two hours on the beach, a much needed time of relaxation and reflection.
Aubrey was a trooper, she surfed again. I stay bundled and warm |
Despite the weather woes, I am very satisfied with my experience at Surf Camp Australia. I had so much fun! I am grateful that we had one beautiful day to surf, and that I have the photos and videos as proof that I did indeed surf. Surfing is such an extremely cool culture; surfers just ooze an effortless coolness that I am envious of, but I came to the realization on this trip that a surfer life is not the life for me. A day and a half living the life of a surfer chick was enough for me! But make no mistake, I fully intend to try surfing again once the weather is HOT and the waters are warmer. Hopefully, if all goes according to plan, Aubrey and I will be able to return to Seven Mile Beach to surf again. When the surf instructors learned that Aubrey works for red bull (she is doing promotional work for them here in Sydney , on top of nannying) their eyes lit up. Red bull and surfing are apparently like peas in a pod; the boys are addicted to the stuff and so we made an agreement- Aubrey and I would come back with cases of Red Bull in hand in exchange for a day of surfing. Maybe I will become a surfer chick after all…
The surf camp crew |
We had a blast, clearly |